When you wake up early in the morning, you can hear the traffic on Route 6—mostly truck traffic. Overnight, it is gas trucks, food trucks, and all the other things that the Cape needs. When the sound of the truck traffic dies out, you know the four-wheelers will be taking over.
There are two ways to tell if it is low tide: your nose and pickup truck traffic. If the pickup trucks are heading for the beach, it's low; conversely, if they are heading away, the tide is coming in. Huh? You see, at low tide, the oyster beds are exposed so the farmers can tend to their crop—oysters. From what I understand, as the oysters grow, they put them in larger cages.
Then there are "switch days"—Saturdays and Sundays. If you sit in P-town for brunch outside, you might hear a mysterious rumble and start looking at each other wondering what on earth that noise is. Finally, the waiter bursts out laughing and tells you what's coming: sure enough, it's a parade of people walking to the docks with suitcases on wheels. It is 11:00 AM, you have to be out of your rooms, and the ferry to Boston leaves at 11:30. The afternoon boats bring the wave in the opposite direction.
The year is divided into two seasons: the "no left turn" season, also known as summertime, and the rest of the year.
Right about now... POOF! The traffic is gone, along with the crowded streets and parking lots, the fighting for a table at a restaurant, and the rug rats. Everyone is heading back to school.
But then there are the weekends. It is like the Cape inhales and fills with cars, bikes, and surfboards. And then it exhales, and the traffic all reverses, cars with surfboards and kayaks on their roofs and bicycles on their tailgates heading back off-cape.
So this Saturday, it's cloudy, cold (mid-60s), and dreary. It is very quiet.
